Ocracoke Now
Ocracoke has evolved from its beginnings as a quaint fishing village into a place where fine dining, beautiful art galleries and upscale rental houses coexist with down to earth locals, a laid back lifestyle and the perfection of nature left alone. Though plenty of fishing happens in local waters, the economy now centers around tourism. Summers bustle with people and activity. Traveling by foot or bike is the way to get the most out of island life, though boats, of course, play a prominent role.
Getting Around Ocracoke
Ferries from Hatteras Island run continuously throughout the summer season; wait times may average one to two hours. If you’re day-tripping from the north during the high season, it might be wise to make friends in the ferry line and share the 13-mile ride to the village. Reservations must be made for both the Cedar Island (800-856-0343) and Swan Quarter (800-773-1094) ferries, which travel from the south and west, respectively.
The primary route after departing the ferry on the north end of the island or at the village dock will be N.C. Highway 12, also known as Irvin Garrish Highway. Several years ago, the county updated our emergency response system and created numbered street addresses for all businesses and residences. Although these names identify the village roads on the local map, most locals prefer to identify island roads with the older names used before the streets were officially named. To help you navigate the village, please refer to the drawing of the village that notes the sections used to organize your walking tour and to locate shops, restaurants and historic sites.
In spite of its remote location, Ocracoke has services and amenities similar to other small American towns. There is a gas station, garage, several grocers, a liquor store, hardware store, bank, health clinic, volunteer fire department, public K-12 school, two Protestant churches, a Catholic congregation and a Quaker meeting, a day care facility, a weekly and a monthly newspaper and a library. Visitors will find restaurants to suit many tastes, a variety of hotels and inns, gift shops and a handful of bars.
Work for most islanders relates to tourism. Many people own and operate small businesses; others work on the ferries or as servers, clerks, cleaners, cooks, boat captains, Realtors, plumbers, electricians, landscapers, carpenters, hunting guides, house painters, massage therapists, fishermen, web designers, waste disposers, teachers and nurses. It is not uncommon for an islander to have two or more jobs in the summer, and locals are disinclined to attach status to employment. The person who cleaned your cottage may teach high school during the winter, and a classically trained musician may be bagging your groceries.
The year-round population is around 770. People choose to live here for the homemade music and pot-luck suppers, the natural beauty, the thrum of summertime, the quiet of winter and because it’s home and always has been. Islanders feel strongly connected to their history, their people, the land and water. Living well on Ocracoke means sharing fish and fish stories, helping a neighbor prepare for a hurricane, gossip in the grocery aisle, grieving together when a community member dies, dressing up for the Fourth of July parade, starry cold winter nights and knowing how to fix your own plumbing.
Visitors who don’t mind a few bugs and appreciate solitude and self-sufficiency will find much to enjoy on Ocracoke. The pace of island life has quickened in the past few decades, but the ethos of independence and humor that served earlier generations remains.
Pelican Airways
(252) 928-1661 or 1-888-7 PELICAN – 1-888-773-5422
New in 2004 are scheduled flights to and from both Norfolk, VA, and Beaufort, NC. One-way trips cost $79 on the Beaufort leg and $129 on the Norfolk route. Round-trip tickets are somewhat cheaper. Charters to anywhere are available, and Pelican Airways’ experienced pilot specializes in exotic destinations. Sightseeing tours over Ocracoke and Portsmouth are also available, as is flying instruction.
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